Roberto Voerzio Barolo Cerequio 2019 (1 bottle)
Barolo, Piedmont
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Tradition vs. modernity in Barolo
The famous Barolo region was once almost divided by a very strong dispute between winemakers adhering to different styles. These winemakers were divided into groups of traditionalists and modernists. The former used methods classic to the region, relying on long maceration, extended maturation in huge barrels and a style calculated for longevity. The Modernists, on the other hand, were fascinated by foreign practices that were fashionable at the time. So they relied on small, French barrels, shorter fermentation, and were not afraid to go for foreign grape varieties. All for the sake of achieving a style that would be ready to drink more quickly and appeal to new audiences.
The style resulted in divisions, quarrels and broken relationships, but also greatly enriched the region stylistically. To this day, it is common to discover different sites, varietals and vintages from the perspective of winemakers honoring either style.
Mascarello and Voerzio are producers of traditional and modern in turn. Bartolo Mascarello has always been committed to the classics, focusing on the wine's development over time and its beauty years later. Roberto Voerzio, on the other hand, is a different take on the nebbiolo varietal; he offers its expression based on reduced yields, shorter maceration and maturation in French barrels. Concentrated, fruity and fast, the wines from Voerzio show what the modernists carried on their banners.
Included is one label from each producer. Each from the highly successful, albeit difficult, 2019 vintage. The wines show good ripeness and concentration of aromas, and the best of them will come from the most recognized habitats and from the best producers. It's worth comparing how the two producers' visions coped with the challenging conditions, and what the results are.
